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It started off as the type of Chanel show to which the industry had been accustomed – the only element missing was of course Karl Lagerfeld who passed away in February of this year. The boxes on the bucket list granting success was ready to be checked.
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The incredible set? Check. This time round, Parisian roofs reproduced in the Grand Palais, chimneypots included. Those roofs are so iconic they are part of the French Ministry of Culture’s list of intangible cultural heritage. They have inspired songs and paintings, movies and poems. Could this be any more French? Well, the city is seeking UNESCO Heritage status to preserve the unique know-how of its roofers. Perhaps a little bit of help from Chanel could make it happen. The production wonder was of course courtesy of Etienne Russo’s Villa Eugenie.
The Megastar? Check. Belcalis Marlenis Almánzar, professionally known as Cardi B was in attendance. The Billboard number 1 rapper arrived in the first look of the last collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld, which was shown in March of this year. The effect is as planned, and photographers have something flavoursome to sink their teeth into for the first time. She’s in character, she poses, she smiles, everyone is happy with this customary event. It happens all the time. It’s routine.
The high-end garments? Check. This season Virginie Viard, Lagerfeld’s heiress, delivered exactly what was expected of her. She didn’t surprise, she didn’t shock. Chanel under her creative leadership is unwaveringly dull. But Chanel is still Chanel. Next summer, the customers will still find their tweeds, their chiffons, their embellishments, their embroideries. One of the most exciting sight was the models sporting afro hair on the runway, something quite refreshing for the house. They added a touch of modernity and reality to the otherwise stuck-in-a-loop looks.
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Despite security measures rivalling with those of a G7 Summit, an intruder made her way into the Grand Palais. As the models took their final exit, YouTube star Marie Bonoliel (aka Marie S’Infiltre) outraced security guards, leaped on the runway and joined the models in their parade. It all happened so fast, some thought it was part of the show – Chanel released a statement denying all involvement – others laughed, most didn’t understand. Bonoliel was then confronted by a fierce Gigi Hadid who quickly handled the situation and escorted her away while security personnel exhibited lost, haggard gazes. Why did she do it? A challenge. We bumped into the comedian post-show and asked her about her intentions. “I did it at the Etam show last week, but it wasn’t that great of a challenge. I wanted to up my game so of course, it meant one thing: Chanel.” From the bleachers, Benoliel did not look out of place for a minute – the Chanel panoply is ageless, timeless – and the joker’s outfit looked as the new clothes presented on the runway…
Of course, sabotaging the work of the thousands of people is immature and unacceptable. It might be attention seeking or of bad taste, but it said a lot more than the fashion crowd would like to admit. It woke people up. It prompted the audacity the show did not have. It allowed for something spontaneous, and somehow exciting, to happen. Fashion is bored; and it took the foolishness (talent?) of a young woman to overshadow such a costly spectacle. But yes, in the end, Chanel is still Chanel.
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